OK....So yours doesn't look this bad

Installing new vinyl flooring can make a room look totally new.  New flooring is also a good do-it-yourself project which can save you much money.  

If you are replacing and existing vinyl floor, you need to see whether the current vinyl can be removed.  This depends on whether it was glued down and what condition the glue and underlayment are in. 

Definition:  Underlayment...smooth material between the sub-floor and your new vinyl floor. Usually a thin plywood product.  You nail or staple it down to the sub-floor with fasteners every 6 inches. 

Step 1 - Remove any shoe molding (or 1/4 round) from the edges. Test the condition of the existing floor by pulling up on a corner of the vinyl to see if it can be removed easily.  Your new floor will need a perfectly smooth surface.  If a hardboard (Masonite type) product is under the flooring...leave it in place and we will install new underlayment over top of your existing floor. If the existing floor can be removed from the underlayment without damaging it,  remove the flooring material and clean and smooth the underlayment in preparation for new vinyl.

Step 2 - Installing new underlayment is the same whether over an existing floor or directly on the sub-floor. Measure and cut the underlayment to fit.

 

Fasten each sheet down with finish nails or staples (rent a small air nailer). You need to have a fastener every 6 inches covering the entire surface of your floor.  Make sure the edges of each plywood panel are as tight and smooth as possible.  Try to use factory edges in the middle of the room, and your cuts at the outside edges of the room.  A and B in the picture are factory edges butted together.

 

Step 3 - If you are laying floor tile the next step is to measure and mark a straight line near the middle of the room.  If your tiles are 12" square, measure out from the longest wall 72 1/4" in two places at each end of the room. Snap a chalk line on these two marks.  This is your starting point.  Lay each tile along this line pushing them tightly together.  Pay close attention during the laying process to always keep the tiles as straight and as tight as possible. Lay the tiles down the chalklline first, then out to rest of the room. Make necessary cuts at heating vents and other obstructions with a utility knife or tin snips. It may be useful to make a paper template before cutting the tile around unusual shapes. 

If you are laying vinyl sheet goods (no-wax flooring) and you are not experienced, I recommend making a paper template of your entire room and simply trace it on the vinyl. Use rolled paper goods such as red rosin paper from your local home center. This step will assure a higher quality finished product, and fewer surprises. Cut your template exactly to the room.

 

            Laying out and cutting an inside corner

    Laying and cutting out an outside corner

 

Lay your template over the vinyl floor and trace the outside ADDING 1" to the template all around the edge. Test fit the cut out vinyl floor. Once satisfied that it will work pull back 1/2 of the floor over the other half as if you're folding the vinyl.  Spread the adhesive on the underlayment per the manufacturers directions. Do not step on the flooring at the fold as it will crease it and possibly damage it. Fold the flooring back over the adhesive and smooth out air bubbles toward the edges. Repeat this process for the other half by folding over the unglued portion on top of the glued portion. Smooth out air pockets by pushing them toward the edges.  Roll floor with a floor roller (rent one) to assure continuous adhesion.

 

Step 4 - Reinstall shoe or 1/4 round molding at edges of new floor. Caulk and paint shoe molding to baseboard.

 

 

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